What tests must a cosmetic product undergo before it hits the shelves?

It’s a long road from developing a cosmetic’s formula to making it available for sale. First, a series of tests is required to confirm the product’s safety. What do these mandatory cosmetic tests involve?

What do cosmetic tests check for?

What we put on our skin can have a significant impact on our health. This is especially true when—as is the case with cosmetics—these are products intended for daily use. That is why a company launching a cosmetic product on the market must guarantee that it is safe. To this end, a shelf life is established. During the period indicated on the packaging, the cream or mask should remain stable. This means that, despite fluctuations in temperature and the passage of time, no lumps will form, and the ingredients will not separate. The cosmetic should also not change color or scent.

What does the process of analyzing the ingredients in cosmetics look like?

To confirm that the product’s properties will not change, a dozen or so tests are conducted:

1. The so-called aging test, during which the cosmetic formulation is exposed to high (45°C) and low (-20°C) temperatures. This test can last up to 12 weeks.
2. An analysis of light sensitivity, in which a cosmetic product exposed to UV light is compared with a sample kept in the dark.
3. The so-called compatibility test between the cosmetic product and its packaging—improperly selected packaging material can degrade the quality of its contents. The opposite situation is also possible, where the cosmetic product itself damages the packaging over time, for example, by causing it to deform.
4. Microbiological testing of cosmetics is intended to protect the product from the growth of harmful microbial strains. The levels of yeast and aerobic microorganisms are also tested.
5. Analysis of the effectiveness of the preservative used.
6. Organoleptic evaluation, which simply means using the human senses. During this process, the evaluator describes the product’s texture, aroma, and color.
7. Measuring pH to determine whether a substance is acidic or alkaline. A pH level that is neutral for the skin should be between 4.5 and 5.5.
8. Measuring viscosity using a viscometer.
9. Measuring density using a densitometer or pycnometer.
10. Dermatological testing of cosmetics involves applying a sample to the skin of test subjects to rule out adverse reactions. Such tests are most often conducted under the supervision of a dermatologist.
11. Application and marketing studies in which a cosmetic product is tested by a group of testers in a home setting. The properties of the cosmetic product confirmed by the participants in such a test may be listed on the product packaging.

In Phenomé’s cosmetic tests, the test group always includes people with sensitive skin.

The data collected during cosmetic ingredient testing not only ensures that the product is skin-friendly, but also allows manufacturers to improve the product by addressing customer needs. For example, it may turn out that, despite passing all laboratory tests, test subjects raise concerns about the scent or texture of the cream.

So, are synthetic cosmetics just as safe as natural ones?

Although both natural and synthetic cosmetics must undergo the same testing, this does not mean they are equally recommended for all skin types. Some ingredients in synthetic products can cause allergies and dry out the skin, and there are also studies that suggest a link between these ingredients and cancer.

Therefore, especially if you have dry or sensitive skin, you should exercise caution when introducing a new product into your skincare routine. Pregnant women may also start to react to products they have previously used without any issues.

Furthermore, substances that were permitted for use just a short time ago are now banned. For example, a few years ago, the European Union revoked approval for the use of methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone, with the exception of small amounts in rinse-off cosmetics. Science is constantly evolving, and so with modern products, there may also be doubts about their long-term effects, which we will only learn about in the future.

What’s more, mandatory testing of cosmetics assesses their impact on your skin, but not on the environment. Therefore, if you care about eco-friendly options, choose organic, vegan skincare products.